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SUBSTANCE & MEMORY:
Landscapes of England
and Wales

“Substance crumbles, in the thin air
Moon cold or moon hot.  The road winds in
Listlessness of ancient war
Languor of broken steel,
Clamor of confused wrong, apt
In silence.  Memory is strong
Beyond the bone.”
-- T.S. Eliot, from Landscapes

Click on any image for the slide show.
What the passage of time often dulls is the memory of circumstances upon which the historic monuments of antiquity were built.  Forgotten are episodes once witnessed beyond thick, redoubtable walls.  History assumes a mythical status, as distant as the hills and hedges in the misty morning, as romantic as the motifs of chivalry and courage that embellish the ghosts and legends of a violent and mournful history. 

The stained stonework of Wales and England remain as the silent souvenirs of ambition and fear that eventually laid waste to king and knave alike.  Parapets are barely preserved, craggy against the spiritless, scudding clouds.  While lilies float in murky moats, the ceaseless, sopping rain strives eternally to scrub away the essence of oppression and force.  Amidst blood-drenched soil, graced now by daffodils, death is redeemed.

The awesome cathedral, the formidable bastion of faith that accompanied the enlightenment of medieval Europe, remains a overwhelming reminder of man’s everlasting hope in the battle to gain redemption from the hell-on-earth over which the castle held sway.  That man can build houses of fear amongst houses of peace attests to his unfailing mortality, and to the ultimate downfall of ambition and greed that defines both medieval and modern man.

Viewed from without, impenetrable walls and imperious towers seem somehow tragic, forsaken.  Under heavy limbs, nature, scheming and opportunistic, demands recompense of Saxon stronghold and Norman keep alike.  Beech grows, gnarled and twisted, as if tortured by time and catastrophe.  Fallen promises lay like the dead trunks of once-mighty sentinel oaks, casualties of ill-conceived necessity, or neglect.  The mottled bark of the plane tree echoes the blemished, ill-defined circumstances of fact and fable.  And in the deepening dusk of the northern sky, heavy boughs cling to and cleave the crumbling substance of mankind’s will to survive, and to dominate.

Forgotten stones fall, one by one, unnoticed and unnamed, and the walls see each spring bloom followed eventually by autumn leaves, dead and dying at their base.  The long reach of time will reclaim the stone, clutching, possessive, back to the earth from whence it came.  The substance of monuments will fail.  The memory of man will fade.  Only the memory of trees will claim the lessons of forgotten mornings. 

What have we learned?  
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All photographs by John Hames.
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1. Avebury Stone Circle, Wiltshire, England. Neolithic stone circle, c. 2800-2200 BC; built on a massive scale, about 1,396 ft in diameter; a complex site that was added to and altered over a period of 2300 years; definitive use of the site is still a point of conjecture.2. Tintagel Head, Cornwall, England. Ruins of a Saxon chapel on the promontory, c. 1230; Tintagel Castle nearby (scant ruins) is generally accepted as the birthplace of the legendary King Arthur, 4-5th century, son of Uther Pendragon and Ygrayne.3. Cadbury Castle, Somerset, England. Earthen hillfort, 4-5th century; believed to be the location of the Camelot of Arthurian legend; excavations reveal the site was continuously occupied for 4000 years, from Neolithic to Saxon eras.4. Glastonbury Tor, Somerset, England. On the summit are the ruins of St. Michael’s Chapel, c. 1360; the Tor is accepted as the location of the legendary Isle of Avalon, where King Arthur, the once and future king, shall one day return.5. Cwmyoy Church, Monmouthshire, Gwent, Wales. Tilted church in disrepair; no date found; in the Black Mountains north of Abergavenny (Y Fenni), Wales.6. West Kennet Long Barrow, a Neolithic chambered burial tomb (320 ft. long, 8 ft. high), still covered in earth, c. 3600-3250 BC; and Silbury Hill (at right in  background), the largest (130 ft. high, 550 ft diameter at the base) artificial mound in Europe, c. 2650 BC. Wiltshire, England.7. The Nine Ladies of Stanton Moor, Derbyshire, England. Neolithic stone circle, (each about 3 ft. high, circle is 33 ft. in diameter), c. 2000-1000 BC; according to legend, the nine standing stones are witches caught dancing on the Sabbath to the sounds of the Devil's fiddle playing. 8. Avebury Stone Circle, Wiltshire, England. Neolithic stone circle, c. 2800-2200 BC (see number 1).9. Pentre Ifan Cromlech, North Pembrokeshire, Dyfed, Wales. Neolithic dolmen, c. 4000-3500 BC; a burial tomb with 8 ft. uprights and a 40-ton capstone; the original earthen mound surrounding and covering the tomb has long since eroded.10. White Castle (Castel Gwyn), Monmouthshire, Gwent, Wales. Norman keep with moat, c. 1180; located on the site of an 11th century earthen and timber fortress, later refortified with stone and white renderings on the exterior walls; abandoned after he Glyn Dwr uprising of the mid-14th century.11. Corfe Castle, Dorset, England. Norman castle, c. 1080; built on the site of a 10th century Saxon stronghold; extensively demolished during the Civil Wars in 1643, when Parliament ordered the walls and buildings to be undermined and dynamited.12. Okehampton Castle, Devon, England. Norman keep, c. 1300; from about 1538 there appears to have been limited occupation of the castle until the late 1600s; from then on the buildings were left to decay, and gradually collapse.13. Corfe Castle, Dorset, England c. 1080 (see number 11).14. Totnes Castle, Devon, England. Early Norman keep, c. 1070; built upon a motte (mound), this is one of the earliest stone fortresses made under the auspices of William the Conqueror; there is no sign, nor written evidence, of any construction to Totnes Castle later than the 12th century.15. Dolbadarn Castle, Snowdonia Mtns, Gwynedd, Wales. Built by the Welsh (Llywelyn the Great), c. 1225; sometime in 1282 (the year of Llywelyn's death), it was seized by the English; within two years, the castle was abandoned, with removal of timbers for use in the Edwardian castle at Caernafon.16. Lewes Castle, East Sussex, England. Norman castle, c. 1075; originally earthen and timber, built soon after William the Conqueror’s return to Normandy; stone towers and massive barbican (gate tower) were added after 1300; essentially abandoned by 1347; later damaged and looted during rioting.17. Glastonbury Tor, Somerset, England. On the summit are the ruins of St. Michael’s Chapel, c. 1360; built on the site of a 6th century stronghold, the chapel was destroyed by earthquake and landslide on 9/11/1275. See also image number 4.18. The Uffington White Horse, Wiltshire, England. In the Vale of the White Horse, a 656 ft. chalk figure (high on the ridge), c. 1200-800 BC; the oldest white horse, and possibly the oldest chalk figure, in Britain; it can only be seen in its entirety from the air; its purpose remains unkown.19. Stonehenge, Wiltshire, England. Neolithic stone circle; c. 2500-2000 BC; 110 ft diameter; built upon earlier Neolithic earthworks from before 3100 BC; in use till 1000 BC; definitive use uncertain, though it appears that an alignment with the rising sun of Midsummer’s Day may be significant.
Technical Information:
> All images are full-frame, 6x9cm Tri-X negatives, made with Fuji GSX690 III camera with fixed 65mm f/5.6 lens, in Spring, 1996.
> Each image measures approximately 8x12", printed on 13x19" paper, archivally mounted and matted to 16x20 inches.
> Prices: Aluminum framed, $275 each.  Unframed, $220.  Insurance, shipping and handling will be added to each order. 
Contact the photographer for more information.
This work was most recently shown in 2004, at Gallery Z in Providence. The statement that accompanied the work is included below.