One of the activities that we performed was the Game Count. We'd begin with an armed guard early in the morning, at a point on the northern edge of the Reserve and, following our GPS to various waypoints, would gradually make our way in a southerly direction to the other side of the Reserve. Although demanding and at times dangerous, this was one of the most exciting activities we undertook, and the reason we chose this project - walking with wild animals in the African savanna.
Bernard Maina, one of the armed guards employed by the Ol Pejeta Conservancy to escort the researchers in the field, walks across a wide open plain within the Sweetwaters Reserve. For protection, each team was provided an armed guard on each assignment in the field. This morning's job was an 8-9 kilometer transect of the reserve, counting and identifying any animal that we saw within 1000 meters on either side. On our first Game Count, Bernard and I counted 161 animals. Many others were probably hidden in the dense bush.
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Guinea Fowl Feather (left) and Hyena Dung, 2006 (above).
Always on the lookout for any clues or signs of animals, the field work provided ample opportunity to find it, in this instance a small down feather from a Helmeted Guinea Fowl, a mainstay of the African savanna, and one whose loud cackle and sudden flight will often warn prey animals of the approach of predators, or Earthwatch volunteers. Above, the unmistakeable dung of a spotted hyena, hard and white with calcium from the scavenger's diet of bone.
This zebra appears all alone on the plain as Bernard and I approach on our game count. In fact, it was part of a larger herd of about 13 common zebra, the others being out of view to the right and the left of the frame. Zebras tend to closely follow hierarchical rules of behavior, and usually travel in single file according to dominance of the females, all led by the stallion. When the landrover, or roving game-counters approach, they splinter into a retreat, regrouping after the danger has passed, with the stallion making sure that the females fall into line.
Gravel Pit, 2006.
Following some pre-determined GPS headings that our Game Count required, Bernard leads me down to a gravel pit with some recent rain still standing. Buffalo will often come to wallow in such pools, and other animals may come to drink, but we were alone as we descended into the pit.
Zebra Skull, 2006.
A zebra skull and mandible lies in the tall grass. Bleaching bones were everywhere, reminding us of the nature of life in this primal place. Dying of natural causes or being killed and eaten by predators, every animal must live by their wits and strengths. Some are stronger and smarter than others, but all have adapted successfully to their niche. Living every moment in constant alert to avoid such ends, the animals display absolutely no emotion, empathy or malice to us or to each other. They live only to survive and multiply, and life is hard for all.
The Game Count:
Tall Grass, 2006.
Where the man with the gun goes, I follow. The transect we are following leads us into a swamp, full of tall, sharp saw-grass but we are able to step from tussock to tussock and cross without too much difficulty.
Into the Bush, 2006.
The transect led us over streams, through swamps, around fences, and into the thick bush. I welcomed any open areas, even though the sun was intense. But any sun is dealt with more comfortably than the uncertainty of what lies beyond the next clump of bushes.
Curious Giraffes, 2006 (left and above).
We did see animals on the game count. For instance, we'd often encounter giraffes, but they would usually see us approaching and watch us warily from above the short trees and bushes. In the foreground of the photo at left is some evidence of elephant damage. Luckily, we never encountered any elephants at such close range as we walked through the bush.
Scattered Bones, 2006 (left and above).
We came upon numerous skulls and bones on the transect. After observing a few scattered remains, I could usually identify the deceased. At left are the leg bones of a giraffe, and above, the bones of an elephant lay beyond the skull that Bernard is kicking. He said it had died perhaps 4 or 5 years ago. Scavenging animals had spread the bones around, but most were still intact, indicating that hyenas probably did not get to them. Hyenas will chew the flesh off the bone and then chew the bones and swallow them.
Crossing a Road, 2006
Bernard leads me across a road and into the open plains. Studies indicate that the classic African savanna ecosystem fluctuates from open grassland to dense woodland and back to grassland, usually over a period of 100 years or more. The reasons for this are subject to speculation, and perhaps is the result of environmental causes: fires, drought, wet periods, etc. But also likely is the browsing effects of animals such as giraffes, elephants, rhino, and other herbivores. The enclosed savanna ecosystem, which the Reserve represents, poses a particular problem then, due to the fact that such populations of herbivores cannot migrate in search of food when their source runs low.
Open Plains, 2006 (left and above).
We could see animals off in the distance as we walked over the plains. But we also saw a clump of trees in the distance, which we cautiously approached. We would probably only encounter a few warthogs or gazelles in the shade of a small clump like this, but it's also possible that something larger and more dangerous could be sleeping there. On this morning's walk, I saw nothing there except a photograph.
Fenceline, 2006 (left and above).
One of our transects actually began outside of the fence that separates the Sweetwaters Reserve from the rest of the Ranch. Upon reaching the fence, we had to walk north about 500 meters to the gate, then back to our transect, adding another kilometer to the day's journey.
Tire Tracks, 2006 (left and above).
After nine or ten long kilometers in the field, we reached the far side of the Reserve, and another fence. (Above) We called for the landrover and reported our position, and then walked another kilometer along this hot and dusty road to meet it.
Approaching Landrover, 2006 (left and above).
A sweet sight after a long day in the field: the dusty approach of the landrover. We were the first team to finish that morning however, and it would be another hour or so before we picked up the remaining teams and finally reached the Research Center for a hot meal and cold drink. But it was worth it: we'd always see loads of animals anytime we drove around the reserve.
Gazelles, 2006.
Under the dim outline of Mount Kenya (above) we came upon a herd of Grant's gazelles. Bernard, my guide and guard, could identify the sex of these gazelles from quite a distance, a distinction that I could not make unless I was very close. Lackling the Grant's more pronounced white rump, a smaller Thomson's gazelle (left) watches our approach from a safe distance.
Aardvark Hole, 2006.
Aardvarks are anteaters, and though the animals dig for ants and termites, most of their diet is found close to the surface of the soil. Deep burrows such as this one are usually meant for warrens, where the aardvark sleeps and raises its young. But not all of their digging results in deep holes. Those are easy to see. Much more dangerous for researchers are the shallow diggings that the tall grass often covers. Just ask Joanne.
